 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Enjoy
the new menu designed and orchestrated by our passionate new
chef, Jack Riebel. |
|
|
 |
|
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
| Our
bar menu is simply a good time with good food. |
|
|
| |
|
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
| |
| Burger Kings |
|
|
Minnesota Monthly's intrepid
food writer consumed thousands of calories, traveled hundreds
of miles,
and
visited dozens of restaurants, drive-ins, and dive bars
across the state. Why? To bring you this: The definitive,
ultimate, be-all, end-all list of the greatest burgers
in Minnesota.
It seemed a simple enough task: Which Minnesota burgers should you
eat before you die? Granted, to the less food-obsessed, this might
seem like a peculiar question, and to a health-care professional,
perhaps even a suicidal one. But to me, the question seemed urgent.
Critical. Life-defining, even.
Yes, I drove to Austin for a burger. I also went to Waconia, Waseca,
Cloquet, and plenty of points in between. Because who could say where
the best, the very best, the must-try-before-you-die burgers in Minnesota
could be found? I had promised myself that this story wasn’t
going to be a kindergarten award ceremony: Not everyone was going
to get a gold star. If there wasn’t a burger in St. Paul that
you would regret your whole life for having missed it, then so be
it (there is). Past performance was not taken as a predictor of future
behavior. And no one got a second chance. It was a sudden-death,
one-shot challenge. If I experienced a once-great burger on a lackluster
day, then that was it—it was out. No mulligans. No mercy.
Great burgers are quantifiable, knowable, definable, and inarguable
(see Best Burger Methodology). And the following are all great burgers.
These are the burgers you must try before you shuffle off this mortal
coil. For the sheer joy of it—and because they will help you
understand something new and important about what it truly means
to be Minnesotan.
Dakota Jazz Club & Restaurant
Inherent Awesomeness: 38
If there is one burger in Minnesota that could be called
the Chef’s Chef’s burger, it would be the Cobb
Salad burger at the Dakota. Jack Riebel is one of those chefs
who every chef in town knows and respects, but he doesn’t
get a lot of public recognition. He ran the lunch at the
dearly departed Goodfellow’s for 10 years, and while
there, he created a burger to honor his fellow chefs: The
Cobb Salad burger. He would take the trim from various high-end
cuts—strip loins, rib eyes, and such—blend those
with chuck, and cook it. Then he would top the burger with
Goodfellow’s famous pico de gallo tomato relish, a
special guacamole created by one of his Latino line cooks,
and an onion relish that he credits to Isaac Becker, who
is now chef and co-owner at 112 Eatery. He added smoked bacon,
hard-cooked egg, and—because it’s a burger—some
buttermilk battered onion rings. It became the off-the-menu
sensation that every chef in town was clamoring for. “When
Tim McKee [of La Belle Vie] was opening Solera, he’d
call ahead: ‘I’m bringing in eight cooks, we
need eight Cobb burgers. Can you do that?’” Riebel
told me. McKee made Riebel promise that if he ever opened
his own place he’d put the Cobb burger on the menu.
Since Riebel took over the kitchen at the Dakota three years
ago, his Cobb burger has been on the menu. It’s magnificent:
A sturdy, beefy, gorgeously charred patty is rested on
a slab of grilled Pugliese bread and surrounded by everything
mentioned above, as well as a chiffonade of thinly cut
Bibb
lettuce leaves. All the various relishes and toppings come
together to make every bite lively, fresh, and vibrant,
but they never obscure the basic campfire meatiness of
the burger
at the core. The Dakota serves a mean basket of fries,
too. If you want to know how five-star chefs make burgers
for
other five-star chefs, look no further.
- Dara Moskowitz, Minnesota Monthly
|
|
|
| |
| Ten Most Wanted |
|
|
Lunch at the Dakota
It was not a great year for restaurant lunches. While I had several
every week, the only ones I felt joy in were from chef Jack Riebel's
all-American, incredibly creative menu at the Dakota. I went on and
on in print about Riebel's craveable Cobb burger—and I meant
every word. This deconstructed burger with its well-charred but very
tender patty of environmentally conscientious, humanely raised beef
was decorated with the best parts of a Cobb salad: creamy avocado,
rich bacon, perky blue cheese. A blood orange and watercress salad
was as crisp and frothy as a meadow in flower; peekytoe crab cakes
were a sweet ocean song.
- Dara Moskowitz, City Pages
|
|
| |
| in praise of a burger... |
|
|
In the heart of downtown Minneapolis,
the Dakota uses beef from Creekstone Farms, a Kentucky cattle
company that specializes in humanely raised, vegetarian-fed
animals raised in an environmentally conscientious way. I stopped
in recently and had a burger fit for the local burger halls
of fame: It was delicious, scrumptious, and truly craveable.
I speak here of the Cobb burger ($10.50), an avant-garde creation
whereby a fist of well-charred, extremely tender beef is set
in the midst of a plate adorned with all the good bits of a
Cobb salad—the avocado cut into precious cubes; the bacon
scattered in rich, twisty salty bits; the creamy, perky blue
cheese lolling in wee lobes. Every bite was rich, deep, and
extremely satisfying. The fries were crisp, fresh, and just
right. My lunch buddy and I also tried a beautiful blood orange
and watercress salad ($9) and a fine, light, and herbal peeky-toe
crabcake sandwich ($11).
" Why have you been hiding the Dakota from everybody?" demanded my
lunch date. "People need to know!"
I talked to the Dakota's sous chef, Brian Linehan, who explained to
me that ever since chef Jack Riebel took over the restaurant they've
been doing most of their own butchery in-house. Part of the reason
that Cobb burger is so good is because it is freshly made from the
second cuts that remain once the steaks and tenderloin are reserved
for the dinner crowd. "Generally, Jack or myself will take down
all the protein in-house, from fish to meat, which allows us to put
together products we wouldn't be able to do otherwise," says Linehan.
Like what? Like from the pork that they break down, house-made chorizo
with lots of cider vinegar and cinnamon, potstickers filled with Kahlua-marinated
pork and shrimp, and so forth. The poultry too, says Linehan, is something
you can eat with mindful peace. But back to that burger. If you want
one that's both ethically responsible and completely delicious, this
is my pick.
- Dara Moskowitz, City Pages |
|
|